John Carter
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Barrel Droop is nothing to contend with your rifle aging because it doesn’t mean that your rifle is also dropping with age. I keep getting guys saying to me, because it is old and due to a continuous cocking motion (no pun intended) at firing, the barrel on their air gun drops. Usually, air gun barrels are much tougher than that and they won’t bend irrespective of how often they’re primed (“break,” of course, models in barrels).

What is Barrel Droop causing?

I’ll stick here with air guns. The air rifle in the ‘Break’ barrel model has more moving parts and is therefore prone to tear, especially due to lack of lube or poorly maintained. The smart bolt that is mounted to the barrel is wear-in compliance with the locking coating on certain types. Nevertheless, there can be an amount of “drooping” or malalignment, even new air rips, split barrels, repaired barrels like Weihrauch HW77 K and even PCP’s can. The best pcp air rifle to buy and the tolerances in the assembly surfaces are responsible for this and are often not noticed.

When we use the word ‘ droop,’ this may indicate misalignment to the right, left, or upwards, but it must not mean that the barrel goes down. In many cases we do not know that the barrel has slipped or is in any way misaligned, because telescopic views appear to account for the question of misalignment.

In most situations, the falling of the barrel is due to a very little displacement of the machined pulley in the break. Machining tolerances cause a very minor alignment flaw, which is hard to detect with standard instruments for the lathe, which often ensures that it is missed or undetected. Earlier Diana air rifles have also been usually attributed to a reduction in the barrel. Certain triggers include misaligned drums in which the barrel itself has been partially drilled, although this is very unusual and I’ve seen it over the years on various air rifles.

Damaged crowns were also responsible for decline in the barrel. Just look at the barrel’s crown and make sure there’s no’ ding’ in it before you pull things out. If so, the re-crowning is fairly easy and cheap if done correctly.

25MOA spacers or Droop mounts are installation.

As with all other mounts, the drop mounts are straightforward. However, I would like to warn you that these droop mounts will be used in a heavily recoiling air rifle, which can well move the droop mountain. My interpretation of this is that it can only be obtained here with a Droop Mount on a PCP.

I like to use the 25MOA tapered rings on a spring driven air rifle that fit within the loop. After fitting the bushes, perform repeating of these tests and you can change the MOA to a certain extent by moving the scope of the rings closer together, to increase the MOA or move them apart, to decrease the MOA. You will also need to check if the arrows point forward and each bush is set to the marked (front cooking–back cooking). This is not an exact art, since most people do not measure the exact drop in barrel in Minutes of Angle.

I came across numerous areas of small coke or beer cans placed between the ring and under the lens. A little bit untidy but like the 25MOA buckets, it works.


I think I would clarify here that until you have made up for the drop, you can not only apply shims to the rear mount. Due to the difference in height and orientation between the front and the back ring, there is a real danger of stretching this circle. The misallocation is a’ steps-on’ decline between the rear and foreground of two parallel matching surfaces, while the scope tube is bent, or “it’s on the piss”. Last year, I saw this on three times, so it happens.

Before you become too interested in fixing your old air rifle barrel, understand the expense, since the weapon is more than even possible to be a financial write-off given the high cost of parts and labor.